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Heavily
Monitored: Alonso Studio’s Crylophosaurus
In the last year, I have
been doing a series of build ups for
Prehistoric Times magazine featuring movie dinosaurs. However,
in issue # 90, the dinosaur of the month was Crylophosaurus. It just
so happened that I had a client who wanted a rare and excellent
Crylophosaurus kit from Alonso Studios done, so it was a perfect
opportunity.
I have experimented with
black and yellow dinosaurs for a while, but never been fully happy with
the results. Yellow is especially hard to get right and still make it
look natural. It is the most likely color to clog up in an airbrush
and can look green or dingy on one hand or too unnatural on another.
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But still, it is a common color for lizards
and I had been looking for something with a manageable mix when I came
across a picture of a monitor lizard and got an idea . . .
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THE
BUILD: Because this was originally done for a magazine with
limited space, I did not take a lot of in progress pictures.
However, the buildup is very straight forward. First, wash the parts with
soapy water first and allow to dry. This helps the paint adhere properly
and evenly
I used pins (nails) to
support the legs and hold the arms in place, securing with 3 minute epoxy
and using Aves two part putty to fill the gaps. In the photo to the
right, you can see the nail hanging down from the body. There is a
corresponding hole in the arm.
And before you put the
arms on, do the claws (see below) and lay in a base coat. Originally, I
thought yellow would be the base coat as you can see from the photos.
However, when I realized that the monitor lizard would be the inspiration
I switched to black. Black is a great base color to work with because it
helps unify the kit, even where you apply putty.
Finally, I drilled a hole
in the base and into the lower leg and used a drywall screw to secure it.
Pre-drill your hole and go slow or you can split the leg.
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PRIMING: I airbrush in FW Inks Cool Gray as a primer. It gives me
a great base and controlled application. I shoot at about 10-15 psi
through an Iwata HP-B for all coats.
BASE COAT: The lower part of the body gets Badger Freak Flex
Banshee Shadow Gray as does the base coat for the claws. The rock where
the dino’s leg adhered is primed and then based with Gargoyle Gray, also
from Badger.
Again, originally I
thought yellow would be the base, but I switched to FW Inks Black and then
sealed with Testor’s Dulcote. However, the red on the crest
remained. I used FW Inks Flame Red to spray in a basecoat.
Ultimately, black trim was shot around the edges as well.
DRY-BRUSHING: Once the black was on, the crest and fleshy pockets
around the nostrils are dry-brushed with FW Inks Flame Red. To dry-brush,
dip a flat tipped brush into a small amount of paint. Pull off the paint
with a cloth and then lightly brush it over surface details until it gives
you the look you want.
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The top of the body is
dry-brushed with a mix of Createx Pearlized Blue and FW Inks Purple Lake,
which gives the black skin a proper sheen. When done, seal with Dulcote.
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THE SPOTS: After
several disappointing painting sessions, I found the solution—a yellow
paint pen! The key is to use a fine point pen and don’t space too closely
except where the body has a pronounced curve.
CLAWS AND TEETH:
After a few experiments, I used Americana Buttermilk, thinned with a
little water to base coat the teeth and claws, then went over that with
some slightly thinned Detailer Rust acrylic wash. Good stuff!
THE EYES: The
eyes are easy. Base coat with white and put a black dot in the center.
When that is dry, coat with Tamiya Transparent Red.
OIL WASH: When
all this was sealed and dried, I put in a black oil wash to add depth to
the lighter areas. Mix about 5% oil paint to 95% paint thinner to
create the wash. You can see the effect on the nose and crest in the
shot to the right.
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THE
ROCK: Before securing the foot to the base permanently with epoxy,
I mottle in Cursed Earth, Lifetone Transparent Burnt Sienna, and Createx
Transparent Gray and drybrush Apple Barrel Dolphin Gray. Then it is
sealed and gets a black oil wash.
This was done for a
client, so alas, it is out my door. If you have questions or want build
ups done, let me know at
editor@creaturescape.com.
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The Rules:
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or foolish statement,
let us know, but don't be a butthead.
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and for heaven sake, if you are surfing the web right now, take a minute
to think about how cool monster models are and go immediately to
our sale
page and buy a kit!
© 2009 CreatureScape, All Rights Reserved
Callahan
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Seriously,
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