STEP 6: I
added two little paint details before sealing the kit. First, I
applied Lifetone Transparent Leather Tan to the horn with a brush. I
dipped it in a tiny pool of paint and pulled it up from the base of the horn
around the entire structure. You only want to cover it about 2/3 from the
bottom, easing your stroke as you get toward the point.
Secondly, I sprayed a light coat of FW Ink's
Flesh on the cheek bones, shoulders and other ridges to add a sense of
When I was
happy with the basic paint job, I sealed the kit thoroughly with
Testor's Dulcote sealer. It protects the paint job and prepares
it for the finishing phase in this construction, the oil wash.
The oil wash will bring the kit
together, blending the skin tones. An oil wash is made by mixing oil
paints with thinners. I mixed up about 3 ounces of
mineral spirits with a 1 cm. tab of Burnt Umber oil paint by Windsor & Newton (aka Winton)
artist oils. This solution was applied to the entire kit
beginning at the top and working my way down. A lot of times, I
will wipe the wash off the top, but in this case I think it helped to
keep it as a top coat. (To learn more about oil washes, you can
The eye gets one more treatment before
completion. I touched up the lines, and when I was happy with
that and the paint had dried, I put a couple coats of Future Floor Wax
on the eye. It is a great gloss coat. When it dried, I
mixed a small drop of Tamiya Clear Red with a 1/2 ounce of Future and
ran it around the edge of the eye to create a red/pink tone to the eye
. . . a little bloodshot quality in other words.
This is a great kit whether you are a
beginner or pro. If you'd like to buy this kit, I can help you
out there ($70 total in the USA unbuilt. Built up is $140).
Just contact me at writesjk @ gmail.com